Lou Dalton / SS 2014

Schermata 2013-06-16 a 21.44.36 The designer yielded to her “fascination with machines, aviation and the engineering behind it,” turning her signature tailored jacket inside out and printing it with codes and lettering from Royal Air Force planes, information gleaned from a research trip to the Air Force Museum at Hendon. Dalton’s love of texture and fabric was borne out in zip-front jackets made from pastel silk brocade, and ultra-light quilted jackets and boiler suits. The three Royal Air Force hunks in the front row added a dash of real-life glamour to her sleek show.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fU8M6ztlLJc

Christopher Kane / SS 2014

Schermata 2013-06-16 a 22.33.59The designer has turned once again to nature and 3-D technology for his inspiration. The collection is filled with outlines of faces and bodies – some cleverly drawn to look as if they are vibrating. They are printed onto pieces ranging from t-shirts, sweatshirts and shorts to scarves and swimwear, the latter of which is a fast-growing business, said Kane. The graphic designs are also printed in fluorescent colors on black, or woven into intarsia knits. There are pops of rich primary colors — blue, red, and yellow — for sweatshirt and shorts ensembles, and for those who prefer a more tailored look, there are black-and-white micro-check suits, worn with knee-length trousers and open–toe sandals.

Topman Design / SS 2014

Schermata 2013-06-16 a 23.23.32The atmosphere of Nashville with its new “Techno Cowboy”. Models paraded in white silk Western-style shirts or dark old-school Americana varsity jackets, hand-embroidered on back or front with delicate flowers, palm trees, and spiders – the rockabilly-meets-modernist lineup pulls inspiration from guys like Brian Setzer. Gordon Richardson, the design director, said he wanted the collection, which had a surf theme for autumn, “to feel glamorous”.  “Topman is always about realism,” says Richardson. “We’re not here to do crazy designs.”

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L7GJD1yt83Y

Hardy Amies / SS 2014

Schermata 2013-06-17 a 00.04.40The brand chose a static presentation to better showcase the details and attention to detail a distinctly elegant English collection and a collegiate feel with lightweight sportswear. The palette of gray, navy, taupe, cream and fiery orange was influenced by Bass’ poster artwork for “The Man With The Golden Arm” and by his opening sequence for Hitchcock’s “Psycho.”
Design director Mehmet Ali used basket-weave hopsacks for outerwear, while one reversible coat made from technical nylon had a Pima cotton interior. There was a stripe story, too, told in trousers, bags, and a natty, oversized Oxford-weave blazer.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6T1HAHYvd-Q

Credits: WWD, British Fashion Council

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London Spring 2014 Menswear / Day One_ My selection

Category: Designers, Fashion Shows, Men Tags: , , , , , ,