Richard James / SS 2014
A cool, colour-drenched collection of sharply tailored suits and separates – designed to evoke summer sunsets after a long day. “We were going to very bright, but we decided to calm down a bit because we did so much color last year,” said Richard James before the show. “We wanted to keep it quite classic — you don’t really see classic clothes on the London catwalk.” True to his word, James sent out elegant silhouettes in soothing shades of lilac, robin’s egg blue, gazpacho red and a delicate brown resembling wet sand. There were zip-front suede varsity style jackets, waffle-knit crewneck sweaters and Jay Gatsby-ish seersucker shorts. Suits were feather light, and came in robin’s egg blue, and lilac or pink Prince of Wales checks, with the trousers stopping short of the ankle. Footwear was fanciful, with models sporting espadrilles adorned with sequins, sparkles or embroidery.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jb-cj4WoNm8
Alexander McQueen / SS 2014
This dreamy, decadent and romantic collection unfurled — in true McQueen style — on a cobblestone catwalk underneath an abandoned railway track. There was manufactured mist, genuine weeds and grass sprouting beyond the dampened cobbles, and a mood of moth-eaten glamour. Creative director Sarah Burton took the McQueen skull motif and worked it into a cotton lace for black or white frock coats that she paired with baggy shorts — a meeting of Marcel Proust and Los Angeles skater boy. The lace, like a tangle of spiders’ legs, worked its way into sleeveless vest tops, which were also worn over the ubiquitous wide-legged shorts. Suits, their trousers cropped just above the ankle, were fashioned from fraying floral jacquards or made from cotton ticking embroidered with black roses. Accessories included black slippers resembling Mary Janes and strappy ankle boots.
Burton cited “ceremonial dressing, the rites of passage of a man” as her inspiration, and this collection did carry a strong whiff of her fall effort, with its ecclesiastical bent. However, the strict shapes and sharp edges of last season are gone, while the tailoring, and poetry, remain.
Rag & Bone / SS 2014
Looks ranging from canvas jackets to cargo pants came with water-resistant Teflon coatings. “It’s a much cleaner silhouette and treatment of the fabric, and a bit more of a minimal approach” than fall ’13, said the brand’s cofounder Marcus Wainwright, who cited Japan as a big influence.
A palette of raven, white, indigo and sage took in shrunken blazers, button-down bombers, shirt jackets, textured shirts, tailored combat pants and even a summer duffle. “It was about trying to twist very classic garments and make them in fabrics where you would never normally see them,” Wainwright said, referring in particular to the sashiko-printed, Baracuta-style jacket and technical military pants executed in a linen and cotton blend.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_-f7jVrNLTA
Hackett London / SS 2014
René Gruau’s illustrations and Terry O’Neill’s images of Sixties jet setters inspired Jeremy Hackett’s spring-summer 2014 collection, while shades of Frank Sinatra, Michael Caine, and Sean Connery added even more personality to the collection.
There were collegiate sports coats reminiscent of those worn by the Oxford and Cambridge rowing teams, straw boaters, and seersucker suits in candy shop colors. Tailored clothing seemed destined for languid picnics beside country rivers or overlooking the Mediterranean. The closing look – an off-white dinner jacket worn with black trousers – was suitable for St James’s most elite men’s members’ clubs.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AmrP2I9H5gI
Credits: WWD, British Fashion Council, Entertainment Daily News, Hackett London TV
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